Framing Tips, Tools, & Techniques
JUNE 23, 2008
Professional sports may be when you’re at the top of your game, but even when just starting out at the youngest age, participating in a sport is very memorable. Ask any child who gets a ribbon for a horse riding event, or a trophy for playing T-ball. Ask any parent who’s there to watch. This is when a shadowbox can come in handy to capture sporting victories, as well as some fun times.
Shadowboxes can keep those early sporting memories vivid, with actual objects of the season, or a certain game, arranged together in the box. Empty shadowbox frames can be found online or at a local craft shop, frame shop, or mass merchandiser. This is a great project to complete with your child during school breaks or the summer. They will enjoy helping you design the box and locate the elements, and the end result will be a great keepsake for their sporting achievements, hobbies, or a very special gift for a friend or relative.
It could be as simple as having ribbons and a few photos from a winning swimming season arranged against some decorative paper in a shadowbox. The ribbons themselves are very colorful, and eye-catching.
The ideas for the box should come from the sport or activity itself. Shadowboxes can be created for younger or older sports lovers, and for any sport, whether it’s a team sport or not. A shadowbox will be quite different for someone who loves fishing, for example, than someone who is a football player or fan
Why not some miniature footballs, basketballs or baseballs from a local craft store to enhance a sports-themed box? A hot glue gun works well for attaching objects to your shadowbox.
Some items, especially a collectible or valuable memento, you won’t want to ruin by using glue directly on these items. So putting a baseball card in a protective cover, or placing the golf ball at the bottom of a display will keep these items visible, but safe.
For the fisherman, you might decide on some fishing lures or part of a reel to be part of a fishing shadowbox. For a golfer, including a golf ball that made a hole-in-one could be the focus, along with a score card, postcard or photo of the course or player, and a tee. Add a little green artificial turf, a greens stub, a photo of the day, some golf gloves, and maybe some old driver covers, and the shadowbox would be set. For most special interests like fishing and golf, you can make your own shadowbox or buy one pre-made too.
Shadowboxes for sports enthusiasts, filled with items of memorable sporting events, are surely a winner.
JUNE 10, 2008
It’s June. Wedding bells are ringing, and it's also the time of year to plan summer vacations. Once the wedding or vacation is over though, one way to preserve these fabulous times is by creating shadowboxes.
A shadowbox is literally a "framed box," and it's usually in the shape of squares or rectangles. A  shadowbox is like a framed picture or photo, but instead of a flat, the box has depth and holds important objects. The front of the shadowbox is covered with glass so that you can see the items that are placed inside.
For a bride and groom, a perfect shadowbox could encompass a wedding invitation, a wedding favor,  the ring bearer's pillow, the grooms corsage, and silk flowers. Imaginatively arranged inside a shadowbox, these items will always have special meaning for a special day.
Or you may want to use dried flowers (from a bridal bouquet or garden) and arrange them within a shadowbox around a wedding invitation. Some of the most beautiful dried flowers are violets, roses, carnations, daises and hydrangea.
Shadowboxes certainly are like treasure boxes, holding particular items that are not just saved, but are displayed like art.
On vacation, pretty much anything can be collected to be placed in a shadowbox. Souvenirs like postcards, seashells, rocks or even leaves can be used. You could save concert or train ticket stubs or a foreign coin. Maybe you'd like to use a road map or a subway token from a trip. If something catches your eye, or is a memorable part of your trip, definitely save it for a shadowbox. Each item will certainly remind you of a wonderful time.
If your vacation spot is the beach, you could create a shadowbox filled with seashells. If you wish, just one  type of seashell could be mounted in a shadowbox, or you may want to mount as many seashells as you can find.
A shadowbox filled with sea glass, driftwood, vintage postcards and a map can vividly bring back  memories of a trip to coastal Maine.
Just because it's a shadowbox doesn't mean you can't use photos too. Of course your shadowbox will contain memorabilia, but you can certainly add a photo or two.
Shadowboxes can be custom-made to hold items of all kinds, or you can make your own shadowbox to display possessions.
Besides summer weddings and vacations, shadowboxes can honor many different events. Whether it's the birth of a baby, graduations, retirements or holidays, shadowboxes will assure lasting memories.
APRIL 29, 2008
Finding a job is probably uppermost in your mind (and your parents') especially if you're about to become a college graduate. Graduation time is nearing, and if you're not going on to grad school, a full time job is usually the next step.
Ideally, the time to look for a job is before graduation, not afterwards. Checking in at your college's career center is one of the first places college students can go for guidance. This could be done even when just a freshman. Yet, there are many other steps that a college student can take to help with a job search, even now.
One important way to find a job is to build a network. Start out by making a list of contacts – perhaps people you know who are working in the field you are interested in. Even if you think you don’t know anyone who could be helpful, your networking list can include not only everyone you know, but even your parents’ friends and your friends’ parents’ friends! They in turn will know other people, and so on. After you let your contacts know what kind of position you’re looking for and what your experience is, leads could very well develop for you.
An atypical, but more of a take-charge approach would be to go into a local professional building, write down the names of company employees listed in the directory, and after researching the company, contact them about possible openings. Before going on any interview, the company should be researched so that you can explain how your skills and experience would work within the company, plus you would better understand the company’s goals. Also if you look for a company that promotes from within, there are possibilities for advancement.
Real-world experience is always advantageous. If you’ve been able to acquire an internship, whether paid or not, it’s not only a way for you to see what the company is like to work for, and gives you work experience, but it shows the company what you are like. So internships, or even volunteering your time in other areas, are experiences that should be highlighted in your resume.
Of course, your resume should be professional-looking. That means no typos. It should look neat, and be written in a clear, concise way. Resumes are a way of showing what you’ve learned, and what qualifications you would bring to the company. For assistance with resume formatting and writing, Pongoresume.com is a terrific resource. References are important as well. Favorite teachers would be perfect choices to write you a great letter of recommendation. Other ideas to strengthen one’s potential on the job-market is to customize your resume for each job, not to overdo it with lots of fonts and text effects, to write a cover letter, which highlights personal accomplishments, and to take multiple copies of your resume to interviews to show how prepared you are.
Keep in mind some mistakes not to make when looking for a job:
· Don’t have your parents involved in the interviewing, recruiting and negotiation process of your job search. If you keep your parents’ advice to yourself, recruiters may find you more professional and mature.
· Don’t neglect to write thank you notes to interviewers or to people who have helped you. A short e-mail might be all it takes for you to stand out.
· Make sure your voice mail greetings don’t leave a bad impression.
· If the interviewer has your cell phone number, if you’re at a place that doesn’t allow for quiet conversation, let the call go to your voice mail.
· Don’t post anything on websites that you wouldn’t want a recruiter to see.
Once you’ve graduated from college, and are still looking for a job, that is a full-time job in itself. You can join a professional organization and attend meetings and events to continue to make contacts. You can always go on the internet to see about job openings. Don’t forget that there’s always the tried and true approach of going through the want ads in a newspaper.
When looking for a job, there is always some rejection. The word is to try and stay “positive”. When you get a job, even if it’s not the job of your dreams, your best efforts and your work ethic serve you well as you begin your career.
FEBRUARY 15, 2008
As a custom framer, collector, or artist, there are many terms that relate to framing and conservation that are important to be familiar with. The following provides a useful reference list of key terms that apply to the preservation, restoration, or framing of art and documents.
Acid Burn: Appears on artwork as yellowish or brown lines, typically due to acidic content of the substrate (paper) or acidic content of matting or backing boards that come into contact with the art. Often acid burn is associated with the use of non-conservation materials, and will appear as a “line” or outline surrounding the art (under the mat area) where the artwork becomes discolored and brittle.
Acid-Free: Paper, matting or backing materials that are pH neutral, meaning they are at or close to 7.0 on the pH scale. These products are neutralized either through to processing to neutralize the acidic content (alphacore), or through the use of inherently PH neutral materials such as rag mat board which is made from cotton. In order to be conservation quality, materials produced from wood pulp must be both acid-free and lignin-free, which is the case with alphacore mat board products.
Accretion: The accumulation of soil, e.g. fly specs, dirt, etc.
Archival Framing: Describes the framing procedure where all materials are completely acid-free. Also see Conservation Framing.
Bevel: The 45-degree angle cut that is made at the inside edge of a mat board window.
Bleaching: Removal of yellowing and/or stains from paper.
Center Line: The horizontal line that is halfway between the top and bottom of a work of art. In a wall arrangement of framed art, the center line bisects the entire grouping.
Cleaning: The process of removing of surface dirt or soil from art or documents, typically done by an art conservator.
Conservation Framing: The process of framing using processes and materials designed to protect and preserve valuable art or documents by minimizing the detrimental effects of natural aging. Conservation framing should be readily reversible so that the piece can be returned to its original “unframed” condition without damage.
De-acidification: The process of neutralizing the acidity in paper by alkaline washing.
Dust Cover: Paper which is placed on the back of a framed piece to help protect artwork from dust or insects. Typically, the dust cover is attached by applying ATG tape along the frame edges and adhering kraft paper or other backing paper to this.
Embrittlement: Weakening that results from acidity in paper and causes brittleness over time. This is very easy to see in old newspaper that turns yellow and becomes brittle quickly due to the acidic content of the newsprint.
Fillet: A very thin moulding used as an accent in framing. The fillet is installed inside of the mat opening, rather like a frame within a frame. Fillets are available in a variety of metallic, wood, and other finishes. Care should be taken to properly install a wood fillet by applying an acid-free barrier when it will come into direct contact with valuable art. Special fillet cutters are available to chop fillet moulding.
Flattening: Drying works of art between blotters or under weights after bleaching or deacidification.
Foxing: A freckle-like, reddish brown staining of paper that is caused by fungus and may result from the use of non-conservation quality framing materials. Foxing can be produced by a combination of high heat, high humidity, and natural salts.
Glazing: Refers to the protective layer of picture frame glass or acrylic (plexi-glass) used in framing to provide external protection to the contents. It is important to create air space between the glazing and the art itself, which is the main reason for choosing a mat or spacer bars to separate the art from the glazing itself.
Hinging: The attachment of art or a document to its museum backing board, using various methods including Japanese wheat paste, archival quality tapes such as Filmoplast P90, acid free corner hinges, or other approved methods.
Lip: The thin edge of the moulding that is just above the rabbet. The lip typically projects over the glass to hold it and the frame contents in place.
Mat Board: The material used to separate the artwork from the glazing. Typically the mat has a window opening to expose the art being framed. Mat board generally is made up of three layers: the face paper, the core and the backing. Mat boards come in a wide variety of thicknesses, quality levels, colors, and textures. See “acid-free” for more explanation as to quality considerations for mat board.
Mat Board Core: The center area of mat board into when a bevel cut is made. Mat board core is made with varying core thicknesses, with 4-ply being most common, and 2 ply, 6 ply and 8 ply also available.
Mat Board Offset: When one mat window is stacked on top of another in a double mat presentation, the offset is the reveal that shows from the bottom mat. A typical offset between the top and bottom mat is 1/4".
Moulding: The material used to build a frame, which is cut on a 90 degree angle in four sections and joined to form a frame. Wood mouldings are the most common and popular choices, although mouldings can also be made from metal, plastic or laminate.
Mounting Board: The backing material which is used back or provide support to the artwork. Typically, the artwork is mounted to the mounting board, or hinged from the window mat opening. See “acid-free” for more explanation as to quality considerations for mounting board.
Overpainting: Previous repairs made by painting over damaged areas of a painting.
Profile: The cross section of a frame which illustrates the height, width, and rabbet of the frame. Viewing the profile of a moulding makes it easier to assess the look and proportions of a particular frame.
Rabbet: The inner channel of a frame which holds the picture and additional framing materials including the glass, backing, and mat.
Rag board: A board manufactured from cotton or other fibers. 100% Cotton or rag board was the only option for conservators for many years and is still considered a high-quality choice for conservation framing.
Relining: A method to strengthen an old canvas by adhering a new canvas to its underside.
Retouching: Filling in areas on an original painting that are missing paint.
Spacer: This material is intended to separate the contents of the frame from the glass or acrylic. Spacers can be created using strips of mat board or foam core, or there are commercially available frame spacers that can be cut and inserted into each of the four sides of a frame. Deep shadow box frames can be made using spacers to display objects.
Surface cleaning: Removal of surface dirt from a piece of art or document.
Ultraviolet Light or UV Light: Represents the range of invisible radiation beyond violet in the visible spectrum. UV wavelengths range from about 4 nanometers, on the border of the x-ray region, to about 380 nanometers. UV light is present in natural sunlight and fluorescent lighting, and can be damaging to art and valuable documents. For valuable documents and art, UV control glazing (glass) can be used to filter out the vast majority of these damaging rays.
Unmounting: The unglueing of a piece of art on paper which has previously been glued down.
Varnish removal: Removal of the protective coat of varnish from the surface of a painting.
Varnishing: The application of a protective coat of varnish to the surface of a painting.
V-Groove: A V-Groove is a thin channel cut into a mat board as a decorative element, typically appearing as a white line accent in the border area of a mat.
Window: The opening in a mat board to that is created to display the picture underneath.
FEBRUARY 11, 2008
Decorating for Valentine's Day can add flourishes and touches to different spots in one's home with its red hearts, bows, lace, and candles. Decorating for Valentine's Day may not be something everyone has done before, but it's bound to make a fun, special atmosphere around the house. There are many decorating ideas to get in the mood for Valentine's Day.
With some red ribbon in hand, one can tie red or pink bows to each arm of a chandelier, to a stuffed animal, or even taped onto the frame of a computer monitor. A large, red balloon on a string can be tied to a chair. Or if a small, heart-shaped balloon is attached to a stick, it can be pushed into the dirt of a potted plant.
The pleasant scent of aroma candles can add to the romantic nature of Valentine’s Day around the home. Many candles of all shapes and sizes can be lit all at once. Candle holders can also make an impact. Whether you decorate with jar, tea light or pillar candle holders, all can be found with a Valentine connection.
The more candles, the better. You can put candles everywhere, and they create a lovely atmosphere. Besides the dining room table, candles can go on a night table, on a bathroom counter, on a kitchen counter or table. Just don’t leave them unattended.
When looking for luxury sheets for Valentines Day, its best to look at the type of weave used to make the sheets, not just thread count. Feeling the sheets is the best way to choose the perfect set of sheets.
An interesting texture in fabrics is also important. Velvet, velour and faux fur are wonderfully rich and soft, and can be used for comforters, blankets and throw pillows.
Other great ideas for decorating include:
- Red, plush pillows, maybe shaped like a heart
- Valentine wind chimes, which make a light and twinkling sound
- Pretty vases for the red roses, pink carnations or other flowers that always means Valentine’s Day
- Covering the table with a white tablecloth and sprinkling it with candy hearts
- Covering chairs with pink tulle and a fluffy bow
- A Valentine garland can be tied to chairs
This holiday is said to have originated because of St. Valentine, a Roman who was martyred on February 14, 269 A.D. While in prison, it is said, he had a love affair with the jailor’s daughter. He left her a farewell note which read, “from your Valentine”.
Valentine Day Symbols
- If you decorate with ribbons it is reminiscent of the days when kings and knights were given ribbons by their beloved before going into battle.
- Hearts symbolize love.
- Roses are identified with romance. Red roses are for passion, yellow is for friendship and white means love and devotion.
Voila! Decorating for Valentine’s Day will make the day that much more special.
JANUARY 18, 2008
How to Preserve Your Wedding Gown
Have you ever looked at your Grandmother or great Grandmother's wedding gown? Besides the obvious old fashioned style, chances are the gown has holes, stains, and discolored spots all over it. These days, wedding gowns cost around $1,000 and that is on the lower end! It's a shame that most women only get the chance to wear the dress for one day after spending so much time, money and effort on such a beautiful cornerstone of your wedding day. Whether your gown is a vintage tradition or a brand new gown, use the following tips to preserve your wedding gown so it can be passed down from generation to generation just like your great Grandmother's.
1. When purchasing your wedding gown, inquire with the bridal shop about professional dry cleaners that they recommend. Or, if you are getting alterations at a seamstress, also ask for recommendations for formal gown professional dry cleaners.
2. Research these professional dry cleaners who primarily specialize in formal gowns before the wedding. You will be too worried about the honeymoon and thank you cards to have time to research a dry cleaner.
3. Don’t wait too long! A dress with stains from wine, food or grass should be professionally dry cleaned as soon as possible after the wedding. If you are going away on a honeymoon, ask a bridesmaid or family member to bring the dress to a dry cleaner while you are away.
4. When you have selected a dry cleaner, inform them about any stain, loose stitches or any loose beads or ornaments the dress might have. Also, look on the inside of the dress for stains as well. These can be caused from makeup. The information will help the cleaner get an idea on how to handle and care for the dress.
5. Although most professional dry cleaners already do so, make sure the dress is stored in an acid-free box with acid-free tissue paper. Inquire about these materials if necessary.
Acid-Free Dry Cleaners Box Example Thanks to Classic Cleaners, a great source for having your wedding dress professionally boxed.
6. Consider permanently storing the dress in a box rather than hanging the dress in a bag. Not only are the materials in a box safer, they will not stretch the neck or shoulders of the dress like hanging could.
7. Store the box with the wedding gown inside in a dry environment with moderate temperatures. Do not store it in a place where direct sunlight enters the area.
8. Make sure the box does not have any cellophane windows. Any light can cause damage to the dress by discoloring the materials significantly.
Visit the following sites for more information about caring for your wedding dress: USA Bride and Heritage Garment Preservation. To find a professional dry cleaner that specializes in formal gowns visit Wed Clean, To invite.com and Fancy Cleaners.
See additional posts from Diploma Frame about displaying your wedding gown.
DECEMBER 28, 2007
How to Display Your Wedding Gown
Your wedding dress will probably be one of the most sentimental and treasured items you'll ever want to preserve and keep for generations to come. After the amount of time it takes to find the perfect dress and the memories you have wearing the dress on your special wedding day, you'll most likely want to cherish this special gown. Consider framing your wedding dress in a beautiful shadow box. This will preserve the dress, keep it safe from harmful light or dust, and allow you to pass your dress on to several generations to come.
Think carefully about what materials you’ll want to use to create your shadow box and consider these ideas when thinking about how to display your wedding dress:
- Decide how many items you want to frame. Will you include your veil, shoes, and purse? After you know exactly what you want to frame, decide how you want to arrange the gown and accessories. Do you want the dress folded to enunciate special beading on the top of the gown? Or do you want to allow the dress to hang down to its fullest length?
- When deciding on a shadow box, it is important to make sure the glass and materials will protect your gown. Do not choose a box that allows ultraviolet light, radiation or heat into the box. This type of lighting could damage the color of the material and distort the gown’s original context.
- Never use tissue paper, boxes or plastic bags that contain acid to store your wedding gown. The acid in these types of materials can stain the dress and damage the material beyond reparability.
- Expect to use a large amount of materials to hold floor-length wedding gowns and accessories. On average, the shadow box for a floor-length wedding gown is approximately 40 by 84 inches. The picture below displays a large frame to accommodate a floor-length dress.
- Even though a display box must use safe materials for your wedding gown, it must also be attractive and reflect the gown beautifully. You do not want the moulding or glass taking away from the beauty of the gown.
Consider the following materials for a safe, yet classy look for your shadow box frame; The materials are also shown in the above picture:
Moulding – a gold frame with a light metallic finish. Find additional beautiful mouldings at Arquati USA (http://www.arquatiusa.com/moulding_home.htm)
Mat Board – shown above, the mat board is preservation quality and a solid white Rag Mat Museum mat. Find additional Rag Mat Museum mats at : Framing Supplies.com (http://www.framingsupplies.com/MatBoardFoamBoard/CrescentMatBoardTwentyTwo.htm)
Fabric – the mat board is hand covered with Dupioni silk fabric. To mount the fabric, consider using a dry mounting adhesive. Search Beinfang http://www.forframersonly.com/products.asp?ID=10&C=2 for more adhesive and framing products.
OCTOBER 04, 2007
With autumn's arrival and the holidays on the way, now is a great time of year to take out your camera and start capturing beautiful, vibrant outdoor photos. Below are some useful tips to help you take rich and captivating photos of the colorful season.
1. To create a more interesting photo, don't try to capture everything you see. By choosing something with visual appeal or interest, such as a fence, tree or a bridge and placing it off-center, will add greater depth to your photo, and will provide a framework for the beautiful fall foliage.
2. Taking photos in the early morning or late afternoon provide the most interesting light for fall photos. The contrasts of light and shadow at these times allow for interesting depth. Also, the sun sits lower in the sky during fall, and the afternoons provide you with warm and beautiful light for photography. Try taking photos just before sunset and using a warm polarizing filter for dramatic color when you’re shooting colorful red and orange trees.
3. Bright sunlight is good for fall photos too, and can make colors in fall foliage glow. However, if there is too much light streaming through trees, or too much bright sky, your camera’s meter may become confused and leave the rest of your photo dark. To avoid losing any color and interest, move in closer to your subject and cut out some extra light.
4. Don’t let an overcast day keep you from taking fall photos. Grey days actually allow fall colors pop out. Take advantage of these days by focusing in on natural details, such as bright pumpkins or fallen leaves. A cloudy fall day is also a great time for taking outdoor portraits. The even lighting and lack of harsh shadows allows subjects and smile and look ahead with out squinting or unnatural shadows crossing their faces.
5. Have fun when taking your fall photos. Don’t restrict yourself to a certain subject or location, move around, and take many shots from different angles. Getting shots from low angles gives you the benefit of different lighting, making a more interesting image. Also, take advantage of action shots. A waterfall, river and even just a windy day can give your photos motion and provide more visual interest.
Fall is possibly the best time of year to take outdoor photographs. But before you head outside with your camera, remember that there is a very short window of opportunity for truly great pictures, so always keep your camera with you. A sudden cold snap or windstorm can blow away your photo opportunity overnight.
For more information and tips about taking Fall photos, check out the links below
Tips for Great Fall Photos
Pro Tip: Five Tips for Taking Great Fall Photos
How to Photograph Fall Landscapes
Fall Photography Tips from Dennis Glennon
AUGUST 20, 2007
Proper Packaging and Shipping Techniques for Picture Frames with Glass
Since Church Hill Classics is an expert in diploma and picture framing, we have had a great deal of experience in finding the best way to safely ship frames with glass. There are many little things that come into consideration that make a big difference during the shipping process. Here are a few techniques to keep in mind when packaging picture frames or framed art.
1. Carefully assess the value of the art before packaging or shipping. The materials used for packaging framed art can be quite expensive. For picture frames or framed art items that have great sentimental value to you or you family, or those that are in their original context, the framed art will need extensive packaging materials. For particularly valuable pieces, it is optional to unframe the art and ship it separately from the frame with glass.
For more Information on shipping valuable art and collectibles please read our blog: The Do's and Don'ts of Packing Art and Collectibles.
2. Provide a significant amount of cushioning to the picture frame or piece of framed art. The recommended amount of cushioning is two inches on all sides and edges of the frame, and three inches on every corner. Medium density packaging foams; such as polyethylene or polypropylene, provide the best protection.
Polyethylene Example Thanks To: ULINE
3. We do not recommend using Styrofoam peanuts, or shredded paper because they tend to settle during shipping, eliminating protection to most areas of your frame.
4. To prevent glass from shattering and damaging the artwork or photograph beneath it, use bubble cushioning, a corrugated board or foam. This should be cut to the size of the glass. The space between the glass and the artwork should also be filled with a protective cushioning. For extra protection if shipping valuable art, apply masking tape to the glass to reduce shattering if broken in transit. The diagram below shows the correct way to package a glass frame to minimize damage during transportation.
Packaging Diagram Example Thanks to UPS Shippers Guide to Proper Packaging
5. When deciding on a correct shipping box, use a full-overlapping box (sometimes called a FOL). This means the box flaps overlap one another and allows the box to add extra cushioning and increase stacking strength. We strongly recommend double walled corrugated constructed for the FOL.
FOL Shipping Box Example Thanks to Empire Container Corporation
6. Insert liners within the shipping box to resist bending or rattling. The liner should surround the entire frame and have the corrugated flutes running in the opposite direction of the flaps on the box. The diagram below explains how to insert the corrugated liner correctly into the shipping box:
Thanks to UPS Shippers Guide to Proper Packaging for Box Liner Example
7. Lastly, it is important to use a durable closure method to provide additional strength and help keep all contents inside of the box securely. We recommend using a two-inch pressure sensitive poly packaging tape or a three-inch water proof tape.
8. Keep in mind that even though some packaging materials might seem tedious or unnecessary, the packaging must keep the framed art safe through many hazards such as puncture, drop, compression, impact, drastic temperature or climate changes, and vibration. Any of these dangerous conditions could severely damage the frame and artwork inside. The packaging materials must be able to withstand the possibility of physical damage affecting the framed art.
Visit the following sites for more information about purchasing shipping materials:
-Framed Art Packaging Boxes with Cushioning: ULINE Shipping Supply Specialists
-Full-overlapping Shipping Boxes: STOCK BOXES NOW!
-Boxes for Shipping Flat Unframed Art: Archival Methods: Archival Storage and Presentation Products
-Heavy-Duty Shipping Tape: ULINE
Visit the following sites for more information on how to prepare for shipping:
UPS
More Blog Topics About Safely Transporting Valuable Art:
The Do's and Don'ts of Packing Art and Collectibles
AUGUST 08, 2007
When packing and handling any valuable artifact or piece of art, it is very important to spend the time and effort planning the proper techniques to pack and transport the item. The requirements vary depending on the value of the piece, although the central premise of assuring that it gets to and from its destination unbroken is a critical consideration.
Art Packing Example Thanks to
I.T.S.: International Transport Services
Special consideration for packing and shipping valuable art:
Whether your valuable objects only needs to be packaged for a few days or for many years, it is imperative the packaging and handling of valuables is sufficient and will not cause any damage, discoloration or deterioration to the item. These dos and dont’s of packing and handling valuables will help your keepsakes stay safe and assure they emerge from shipping and storage in the same condition as they began.
Do:
• Always consult an art conservator or packaging service before shipping. Find out the safest packing materials for each valuable. Certain materials could deteriorate the object if they are not compatible with the original contents.
• Only package valuables that are in good condition. More damage is likely to occur to an item that is already weakening.
• When packaging any valuable, always wear white, cotton gloves. This will prevent unwanted finger prints or dirt from getting on the object.
• Anticipate that the item could experience different humidity and environment changes. Line the box or crate with insulation paper, polyethylene or bubble wrap around the box. This will create a moisture and thermal barrier.
• When using boxes to pack, use soft sand bags or pillow between smaller pieces of art or valuables. This will reduce the possibility of the objects hitting each other and breaking during transportation.
• Label the content of each box or package to reduce confusion or the possibility of the valuable getting lost during transportation. Also, all boxes with fragile items should be marked accordingly.
Fragile Boxing Tape Example Thanks to
Removal Supply
Don’t
• Don’t use any packaging materials that contain acid. Make a special note to use cardboard boxes, boards or other packaging materials that contain acid-free substances. Certain acids could drastically change the valuable object.
• Do not use nails or staples when securing a box or crate. The vibrations can cause serious damage to the item. Instead, try using screws or heavy-duty boxing tape.
• Do not work in a cluttered, dirty environment such as a basement or an area where there is any dust or dirt. A clean, isolated packaging area will prevent dirt or dust from entering the package and affecting the valuable’s condition.
• Don’t use just any packaging materials. The materials must be compatible to the original materials used for the piece of art or valuable object. Research this through an art conserver before going ahead with packing and handling.
• Do not rely on man power to lift heavy objects. Use trolleys with cushions to help move objects.
• When packaging framed art or photographs, do not allow the packaging tape to touch the frame or art. This could seriously damage them.
• Never roll any artwork that is on paper when transporting. Place the paper between two sheets of acid-free backing board. Rolling the paper can cause permanent damage.
Other Important Considerations:
1. Ship Only When Necessary
The best way to transport an irreplaceable document, book, or work of art on paper is to pack it securely and deliver it yourself. Even under the best of circumstances, shipping by common carrier always involves some risk. Objects may be exposed to crushing, shock, vibrations, or drastic changes in temperature and relative humidity (RH). Packages can be left out in the rain. The risk of damage can be minimized by choosing a reliable carrier and, even more, by packing the object securely.
2. Choosing a Carrier
UPS and Federal Express: These carriers will not knowingly accept art objects, unique items, or irreplaceable artifacts, and for that reason we would not recommend UPS or Federal Express as carriers for works of art or historical materials. Both of these carriers have limited insurance limits on art in transit, often just $500, so be sure if you are considering these carriers to determine in advance if they will cover a claim for the value you insure the package at.
Fine Arts Shipping Services: These companies offer door- to-door trucking with special handling for valuable or irreplaceable objects, and some also offer packing and crating services. Fine arts shippers are very reliable, but usually expensive. Check your local telephone directory for possible local providers, or consider these relevant links; Lile- Logistics Services, Tate- Fine Art, and Fed Ex Custom Critical.
3. Objects Framed Under Glass
If the object is framed with glass and cannot be safely removed from the frame, it is best not to ship it. If sending such an object is absolutely necessary, apply strips of masking tape to the glass. The tape may not keep the glass from cracking, but it will hold the glass in position so there is less danger of damaging the object. The tape should cover the entire surface of the glass in parallel strips that are both vertical and horizontal. To absorb shocks, framed pictures must be cushioned extremely well.
4. Fragile or Delicate Objects
Special care must be taken with fragile objects. Those created with media such as pastels or charcoal drawings are especially vulnerable to vibrations, which occur during travel. Such materials should be hand-carried whenever possible. If pastels must be shipped, speak with a conservator first.
5. Crates
Crates afford the most protection for valuable art or three-dimensional items. Although waterproof containers can be made at great cost, ordinary wood crates are not waterproof or even water resistant. The most you can expect from the average well-made crate is physical protection. To ensure that the contents are not exposed to rain or other hazardous conditions, you must use a reliable carrier. Each object should be wrapped and packed so it does not slide around in the crate. Enclose a packing list of all objects as well as your name, address, phone number and any special instructions. Wood, especially plywood, is the material most commonly used for crating. If you make the crate yourself, use flat head screws. Nails are not as strong and are difficult to remove when unpacking. Removing nails may cause jarring of the contents and damage to the crate, which might otherwise be reused. Large crates should have handles or wood extensions that allow them to be lifted and moved easily. For pre built crates, try: Caseworks Crating & Shipping, or for a video or software related to crate-building, visit Vision Alliance Networking- Crate Building.
Visit the following site for more information and resources on international shipping:
I.T.S. International Transport Services:
To find an art packaging/shipping service company near you, visit the following sites:
Directory of Packing Services
Harsh Transports
Safe Ship
MAY 10, 2007
If you are planning to hang framed artwork on a wallpapered wall, here is a great idea to avoid poking holes in the wallpaper that are difficult to repair later.
To minimize damage to the wallpaper, use a straight edge to cut a small "V" in the paper where you plan to insert the nail, then gently peel the V-shaped piece of wallpaper up. next, insert the nail within the "bare wall" opening while holding the top of the V-shaped piece of wallpaper up and out of the way. You can hang your picture on the nail, and then if you decide to remove it at some point, take the nail out, putty the small hole, and then glue the wallpaper flap back down.
APRIL 23, 2007
"Archival Mist" Document Preservation Spray
If you are looking for a quick way to protect your historical family documents from the damaging effects of acid, there is a product available called Archival Mist.
Archival Mist is a solution that will extend the life of paper materials by up to five times! It works by continuously absorbing acids in paper, essentially making the paper acid-free! The spray solution comes in a 5.3 oz. pump bottle which dries quickly, leaves no odor, and continues to work for the life of the paper. This one bottle will protect about 300 of your important documents!
Archival mist was awarded Best of Innovations by the Hobby Industry Association and was one of Creating Keepsakes Editors’ Choice products for 1999. For more information or to purchase this product, click here to be taken to the Your Family Legacy website.
Of course, for highly valuable documents or questions concerning restoration, it is always advisable to consult a professional conservator. To locate a conservator, try this link: http://aic.stanford.edu/public/
APRIL 16, 2007
With the new Thumbs Up! hanger system you can easily and quickly hang framed art and mirrors up to 25 pounds without the use of any tools! For heavier items use two hangers for a secure and guaranteed hold.
The Thumbs Up! hanger is a secure locking anchor that attaches framed art to drywall in just a few easy steps, leaving just a small hole in the wall. To see a demo of how easy this new product is to use, click here!
This new product is not available in hardware or home improvement stores. It is currently only being offered by professional picture framers. For more information contact Thumbs Up! toll free at 1-800-827-0092, or e-mail them at info@thumbsuphanger.com, or visit the Thumbs Up! website at www.thumbsuphanger.com.
FEBRUARY 07, 2007
The pH measurement runs on a scale of 0 to 14 and reflects the relative level of acidity or alkalinity of the material being measured. In the case of picture framing, the pH measurement is an important consideration that will affect the longevity of the item you are framing. A rating of 7.0 (plus or minus .5) is considered neutral. As the pH shifts lower on the scale, it means the material is more acidic; as it shifts higher than the neutral range, then the material is more alkaline. As the scale shifts by one numeric value, for example from 6.0 to 5.0, the level of change in the acidity is 10 fold higher, and a 2 point change on the scale indicates a 100 fold shift in acidity or alkalinity. It is important to realize that even small pH changes can be significant.
When selecting matboard or backing materials for valuable art or documents, be sure to ask your framer or check the manufacturer’s specification sheet for the pH value and recommended use. Because many popular “decorative” mat boards contain buffers that make them “acid-free” or “neutral” for a period of time, you must refer to these specification sheets (or look for the imprinted information on the back of the matboard sample) to identify conservation or archival products in cases where preservation is important. This is because some materials within a standard “acid-free” board, such as lignin, become more acidic over time—causing pH shifts that discolor the core of the board (making the bevel appear yellowish.) Gradually, this change will cause the same discoloration and brittleness in your framed art or document. External pollutants can also contribute to pH shifts in framed pieces over a long period of time, so starting with properly engineered materials and using professional framing techniques are very important.
To locate a reliable custom framer, look for the “Certified Picture Framer On Staff” designation, which indicates the person has been certified in proper framing and preservation techniques by the Professional Picture Framers Association (PPFA). Through their Web site, PPFA offers a “search” option to help with locating a reputable framer (try http://www.ppfa.com/ and then look for the “Find A Framer” link.)
JANUARY 04, 2007
If you have ever had trouble hanging artwork, there is a new tool available from Qwik Pix Hangers, that will help you easily and quickly hang your art or documents in just four simple steps! It is ideal for displaying an arrangement of framed pictures because it allows you to place the picture exactly where you want it. With Qwik Pix, you can avoid common hanging mistakes like placement too high, too low, or putting extra holes in the wall!
(Image thanks to www.qwikpixhangers.com)
  
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
Step 1: Hang your picture on the hook located at the bottom of the hanger and place it against the wall where you want it to hang
Step 2: Make a pencil mark on the wall next to the reference mark on the hanger, and then remove the picture from the hook.
Step 3: Realign the hanger with the reference mark on the wall. Then, make a pencil mark in the hole under the little hook.
Step 4: Remove the hanger from the wall and hammer a nail in the pencil mark you just made under the hook. Hang your picture!
To see a demonstration of how the Qwik Pix Hanger works, click here to view one of their commercials. Please visit the Qwik Pix Hangers website for more information about, or to order this easy to use and convenient product.
|